Feel
free to email me if you have any questions
or comments.
Here is the one I made myself.
The
process of making the sleeve is described in Dale Coffin's
page (http://www.dalecoffing.com/iPAQ/GM/CF_Thin.htm) but you
basically need some time to make it yourself. Don't rush
and make sure you get some wet sand paper for the finish (after
you apply the bondo). Dale didn't mention that you needed
to use this but I found out that if you want best results
you will need to get a sanding block and some very thin sand
paper (1000+). You also also want to include a TORX #6 screw
bit to disassemble the CF card.
Tip: If you do not want to spend extra time to make the surface
of the bondo smooth, you may want to try Fleckstone paint
which will cover most of the imperfections on the card.
-
Modify your serial cradle to USB:
This
is a little mod that I found on this website: http://xetranet.com/ipaq/usb.htm
It
allows you to modify your serial cradle to USB. This site
is in French so here is a little review for those of you that
aren't fluent in French yet!!
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Open
the serial cradle using a TORX 6.
-
Take
the cable apart. Make sure that you don't lose the springs
and you take a good look how it is assembled.
-
Take
a USB cable and cut it in order to keep the end that will
connect to your
desktop.
-
On
the little board detach the connector CON2 (CON2 is marked
on the board on the side of the connector).
-
Solder
the following:
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The
red cable (coming from the USB) to #7 on the CON2.
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The
white cable to #10 on the CON2.
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The
green USB cable to #11 of the CON2.
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The
white USB cable to #12 of the CON2. |
Once
finished try to see if you can sync with your desktop.
The iPAQ should turn on when plug-in the connector.
In my
case I had to had the following:
| |
In
addition to the red USB cable connected to #7
you
want to solder it to #14 as well. |
Finish
the job by making sure your work is secure, and
reassemble the cradle.

Note
that there apparently exists different versions of the
serial cradle.
I was sent this comment by Ian, which was kind enough
to let me post it;
After
trying to convert my cradle to the USB version I found
it failed.
After some time and testing I came to the conclusion that
there may be different versions of the little PCB board
found inside the cradle.
The USB connections on Con 1 (The one that connects to
the iPaq) are on pins 11 and 12, which are also connected
to pins 11 and 12 on con2 (the one that connects to the
serial cable).
However, on my board the con 1 pins 11 and 12 were not
connected to anything (I also noticed small differences
between the pictures supplied on the page and my board).
On my board pins 11 and 12 on con 1 are connected only
to two surface mounted diodes which appear to be over
voltage protectors; they do not connect to ANY of the
pins on the con2 connector.
Connecting
the USB green and white wires directly to the pins 11
and 12 (respectively) on the con 1 connector solved the
problem, and the cradle now works with my USB. It is important
to connect directly to the pins on the con 1 connector;
NOT on the other side of the 'diodes' - connecting to
the wrong side of the diodes will result in the cable
not working.
Also: after drilling a small hole and removing the plastic
'lock' which locks down the side 'wings' of the cradle
(the bits that pop up and down depending on if you have
a jacket on the iPaq or not) will provide enough room
inside the cradle to leave BOTH the serial and USB cables
connected.
Here is another info posted by Simon Bannister. On the
new serial cradles you can directly solder the USB wires
onto the board!!!!
The newer circuit boards in the cradle have pin holes
in the circuit board ready to directly solder your USB
cable to.
They are:
H1-Sheild
H2-Red
H3-Black
H5-White
H6-Green
Just remember that you may have to reboot your PC when
the software detects the IPAQ in the cradle. Also set
both Activesynch and the IPAQ to USB.

-
Connect to the Internet using you
USB or serial cradle:
By
now most people how found out of this work, but if you're
still a little confused about it, here is a little summary.
There are also different solution, one of them listed on Dale
Coffin's site: http://www.dalecoffing.com/General/MichaelBoone/InternetConnect.htm
My iPAQ connected.
Here
is mine:
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- Get
a registry editor such as Regedit.
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| |
- Edit
your registry and go to the following folder: HKEY_CURRENT_USER/Comm/RasBook
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- Click
on new folder and create a folder named USB dial or
whatever you'd like.
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- Go
back to the RasBook folder, and click on USB, and
copy the content of the connection.
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- Go
back to the folder you create, and paste the content
of the connection.
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- Proceed
to soft reset of your iPAQ.
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These
steps can be applied to the serial or even infrared connection.
The
next step is to install a utility that allow your computer
to run as server and create a IP address for your iPAQ. I
use AnalogX Proxy. In order to setup your PPC do
the following steps:
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|
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- Click
on tools, options, connections.
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- In
the Type of connection pop-down menu, select the connection
you create (ie: USB dial)
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- Make
sure that AnalogX Proxy is running (it will be on
your system tray of your computer). Right click on
it and choose Net Info. Check the IP address and enter
it on your PPC. As far as the port setting use this: 6588
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You
use the same settings for AOL IM.
NOTE: I have problem with this mod using the latest ROM version.
Apparently it will only work with ROM 1.29... working on the
update!
- Battery charger for your iPAQ:
I
did this one in no time; the finish isn't perfect but that's
what you get in 10 minutes!

You can find a complete installation review
here:
http://www.dalecoffing.com/Casio/DennisWolfe/BatteryExtender/BatteryExtender.htm
- Customize your iPAQ sounds and display:
Here
is my Today's page, customized with a picture of my car but
also the iPAQ skin for the Gigabar, and a custom Today's windows
(today's the day).

As
far as the sounds go, I used some sounds from Windows ME that
I transferred into the windows directory of my iPAQ (wav format).
If you want to change your Network connections sounds, you
might have to rename them before transferring the file; make
sure you back them up first (just copy and paste them into
your desktop My Documents directory). Here is the list of
the sound name:
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|
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|
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- Network
Interrupt: Infintr
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- For
the start sound, you might have to overwrite an existing
file listed in the pop-down menu. To do so, just rename
the new wave file with the name of the file you want
to overwrite. I used Alarm2 and the Windows ME setup01
wave. Once again, make sure you proceed to a backup
of the original file.
|
Note:
You may also transfer the wave files to your Windows directory
without changing their names. If they do not list in the
sound pop-down menu, you will need to rename them as explained
above. Try to keep the initial names short (such as sync,
syncd,....).
- Modify your Pocket IE version:
Here
is a little trick to make the server "think" that you are
using a IE 5+ platform.
Use
regedit or some type of registry editor.
| |
- Browser
to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\
Windows\CurrentVersion\InternetSettings\User Agent\
|
| |
- Change
the default value from "Mozilla/2.0" to "Mozilla/4.0"
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| |
- Change
the version value from "MSIE 3.02" to "MSIE 5.5"
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- Change
the platform value from "Windows CE" to "Windows NT
5.0"
|
Note:
to remove the screen size restriction that some websites have,
you can delete the "240*320" value found under \PostPlatform\.
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- Soft
reset to apply changes.
|
This
will enable ClearTypeText for some HTML using this technology.
You will need a registry editor once again (such as regedit).
| |
- Browse
to HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Winows\
CurrentVersion\InternetSettings\
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- Create
a new DWORD value, named "ClearTypeText".
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| |
|
Note:
To disable it, you can reset it's value to 0.
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- Soft
reset to apply changes.
|
- Remove the Character Recognizer from your input
menu:
You
will need to use regedit or other registry editor.
| |
- Browser
to HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\CLSID\
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| |
- Change
the current value for Character Recognizer to "0"
The value is {42429690-ae04-11d0-a4f8-00aa00a749b9}
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| |
|
You
may do the same with other input methods, by locating their
DWORD:
For
Transcriber: {F0034DD0-2AD4-11d1-9CB0-E84be8000000}
For
Keyboard: {4229667-ae04-11d0-a4f8-00aa00749b9}
-
Modify your cradle for Vaja case:
Here
is a little trick that will help you sync your iPAQ when using
a Vaja case.
I just received mine a few days ago, and noticed that unless
holding the PPC down in the cradle, it wouldn't sync! So here
is the trick:
| |
- First
open your cradle and make sure you'll be able to reassemble
it!
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- Locate
the board. The piece that comes on top of the board
(and let the connector go through) as 2 small plastic
tabs on each side of the board (preventing it to go
higher). Take pliers a remove these two plastic tabs.
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- Then
locate where the board slides into the cradle (there
are 2 rails). You want to put a piece of duct tape
on each side of the board (where the rails will be)
so that this one doesn't go all the way in the rails
(or is at least harder to push down). Don't put too
much tape, one layer should be enough.
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| |
- Reassemble
the cradle. You'll notice that the connector is sticking
out slightly more than before. Just 1/64-1/32"
or so but that should be enough for much better sync
while using the Vaja case!!!
|

- Save
the poor battery of your PocketPC 2002 device:
For the past couple of months I've been facing significantly
lower battery life. Using and IBM Microdrive (with most
of my programs installed on it), my poor iPAQ's battery
has been taking a severe hit when on! I did notice a significant
drop in battery life after installing the new OS, PocketPC
2002.
The reason being is that under the connection tab in your
settings panel, you have the option to leave the IrDa open
at all times ("Receive all incoming beams...").
After many hours of testing using Battery Monitor, I noticed
that while the option is activated, the battery life will
be reduced by an amazing 30%. My old iPAQ only lasted a
mere 10 hours with no backlight and no CF. Turning the option
on will cut this time to a poor (very poor) 7 hours! Now,
using the backlight and a Microdrive during a normal day
is just becoming more and more difficult! It looks like
the 1300mAh iPAQ battery offered by LinearLogiX will soon
find a new home in my unit. For now, I carry my home made
battery pack in case of an emergency!
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